Visiting Tequila Country
You can't
fully appreciate tequila until you have visited
Tequila County. If you can at least once in your life walk between the
rows of blue agave, take the soil between your fingers, taste the baked
agave fresh from an oven, sip raw tequila dripping from a still, smell the
muskiness and agave seeping from barrels in a dark bodega, or stare in
wonder at the dark shape of the volcano on the horizon, you will learn
more about tequila than a lifetime of mere sipping and sampling.
Getting to the land of the blue agave is easier every year. Many
airlines fly into Guadalajara from around the world, and the tequila regions are a mere 1-2
hours away. There are buses from Guadalajara that go to each zone daily
(take a taxi to the new bus station and find the appropriate bus). A taxi to Tequila from Guadalajara airport was
about $80 USD in 2006, more than double that to Arandas.
Another
option is to book
a personal tour with David Ruiz, who comes from a family of
tequileros, and knows the families, the regions and the companies
intimately. David's knowledge and access to the industry are impressive.
He is genial and offers a superb experience. David joined the forum for
portions of our 2007 and 2008 tours and helped us get into places we had
never been able to visit. I highly recommend his services if you want a
memorable tour with depth.

You can also rent a car and drive to
both regions long the well-marked Mexican highways. Be forewarned: the
traffic in Guadalajara is a challenge for anyone not used to Mexican
driving. Once outside Guadalajara, Tequila is about 45 minutes' drive
away. There are two highways: the slower two-lane free highway which
runs through Arenal and Amatitan before it reaches Tequila, and the
faster toll highway, which bypasses the smaller towns and requires
several payments before the exit to Tequila.

Tequila is considered a day trip, a jaunt from Guadalajara,
for many Mexicans and foreigners. Tour buses in the city offer low-cost
day trips to Tequila, with one or more distillery tours thrown in.
The Tequila Express is another popular weekend excursion; a two-hour train ride
to Amatitan with music and dance performance, is followed by and a tour
of the Herradura factory at Hacienda San Jose del Refugio, that dates to
1820. The cost for the train trip is about $70 USD and tickets are
available from
Ticketmaster's Mexico outlet.
For the less adventurous
or those pressed for time, a
day trip from Guadalajara on the Tequila Express will at least get you
out to the area around Amatitan and a chance to tour the stunning
Herradura distillery and its classic hacienda, founded in 1802. Amatitan
is about 30 minutes from Guadalajara and the 2,500-acre Herradura site
is well worth the trip: you'll even see the family home, used
continually from 1862 until 1995, and still a weekend retreat for the Romo family until the distillery was sold in late 2006.

In Tequila itself you can go on
several inexpensive bus or walking tours of the local distilleries. There are
usually ticket sellers in the plaza and zocalo. But you can also simply
go to the distilleries and pay for a tour, or just ask to visit. While
tours were a rarity a decade ago, they have become part of Tequila's
growing tourist business today. However, while the larger distillers may
have regular tours, smaller companies may only allow them by
pre-arrangement and some are still not comfortable with the idea of
allowing visitors onto their premises.
You can also drive
to tequila from Puerto Vallarta. It is about
three hours to Guadalajara from P.V. and another 45-60 minutes to
Tequila or 90-120 minutes to Arandas. Check with your hotel in P.V. about
road conditions and renting a car.
However, while Guadalajara has many facilities for
international visitors, since most of the tequila-producing towns are
small and not on the popular tourist trails, they lack a lot of
amenities. There are small but clean and attractive hotels in Arandas
and Tequila.

Outside those towns, however, facilities tend to be more spartan but prices are very reasonable. Check for rooms and availability
before you travel. I have stayed at the Mision Tequillan in Tequila
(telephone +52-374-742-3233) and the Hotel Santa Barbara in Arandas
(52-348-783-3737) and can highly recommend both of them.
Since UNESCO added the tequila-producing regions to
their list of World Heritage Sites, Tequila has been seeing more
tourists:
Agave Landscape and
Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila (Mexico). A 34,658 ha site,
between the foothills of the Tequila Volcano and the deep valley of the
Rio Grande River, is part of an expansive landscape of blue agave,
shaped by the culture of the plant which has been used since the 16th
century to produce tequila spirit and over at least 2,000 years to make
fermented drinks and cloth. Within the landscape are working
distilleries reflecting the growth in the international consumption of
tequila in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, the agave culture is seen
as part of national identity. The area encloses a living, working
landscape of blue agave fields and the urban settlements of Tequila,
Arenal, and Amatitan with large distilleries where the agave ‘pineapple’
is fermented and distilled. The listed property includes fields,
distilleries and factories (both active and not), tabernas (distilleries
that were illegal under Spanish rule), towns and Teuchitlan
archaeological sites. The property numbers numerous haciendas, or
estates, some of which date back to the 18th century. The architecture
of both factories and haciendas is characterized by brick and adobe
construction, plastered walls with ochre lime-wash, stone arches, quoins
and window dressings, and formal, neo-classical or baroque
ornamentation. It reflects both the fusion of pre-Hispanic traditions of
fermenting mescal juice with the European distillation processes and of
local technologies and those imported from Europe and the U.S.A. The
property also covers archaeological sites which bear testimony to the
Teuchitlan culture which shaped the Tequila area from 200 to 900 A.D.,
notably through the creation of terraces for agriculture, housing,
temples, ceremonial mounds and ball courts.




If at all possible to fit it in to your
travel schedule, spend at least a day visiting Guadalajara. It is a
beautiful city, Mexico's second largest, with many plazas, colonial buildings, art galleries,
wide streets, a fascinating mercado and great places to eat and shop.
For some personal reminiscences of the
area, read the
tour 2006 and
tour 2007 pages.
Sources:
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